David Moret is a micro-négociant making only white wines in his small cellar in Beaune. He studied oenology, but then went on to sell winemaking supplies before he finally decided to make wines himself.
Moret makes excellent Meursault but his Aligoté is a real stand out wine. Aligoté is Burgundy’s forgotten white grape variety often giving wines that are harsh and lacking any real style. Not so Moret’s “Le Grand A”. Produced from 60 year old vines, it is not your typical Aligoté, extremely concentrated (due to the old vines) and given several months in French oak, a portion new.
Alain Gras has long been acknowledged as the pre-eminent vigneron in Saint-Romain – a village of wonderfully sited vineyards and a greater proportion of limestone than any other commune in Burgundy. It has also benefited greatly from recent climate change – meaning that previously overly cool sites, due to their high altitude, are now routinely achieving full ripeness and physiological maturity.
His stunningly situated domaine comprises 12 hectares of Saint-Romain (8ha planted to Chardonnay and 4ha to Pinot Noir). He has 42 separate parcels in all, but prefers blending the grapes from the individual sites to ensure complexity and consistency. The Saint-Romain Blanc, from vines which average 40 years old, displays an impressive ripe core of white stone fruits, expressive minerally, elegance, finesse and tingling acidity. After a gentle pressing, it is vinified in a combination of 80% stainless steel and 20% new oak and bottled after 11 months.
There are presently 26 restaurants in France with 3 Michelin stars and Alain’s wines are listed in 21 of them.
Domain Ballot-Millot is a 12 ha., family estate located in the heart of Meursault and now run by the young and talented Charles Ballot.
All the wines are barrel fermented, with around 25% new oak.
His Meursaults are chiselled, fine, pure and minerally – top class wines from a talented young vigneron.
Their village Meursault is from a total of just under 2ha of Chardonnay vines with an average age of 33 years. Dry and creamy, the nose has aromas of almond, hazelnut and butter. The palte is rich and generous with ripe fruit, taut minerality and butter and vanilla flavours from the oak.
Jean-Marc is the fourth generation of this branch of the Pillot family to be in charge of this excellent, 10 hectare domaine. He took over the reins from his father Jean in 1991 and is assisted by his wife Nadine and sister Beatrice.
The white wines of the domaine mature quickly and are at their peak 3-4 years after the vintage.
Ripe fruit is set off by a wonderfully elegant mineral core. The use of wood is restrained.
This long established Meursault domaine is run today by Vincent Boyer-Martenot, whose father, Yves, was renowned for his elegant, mineral driven wines. Vincent has followed in his illustrious footsteps and makes equally alluring wines.
Cuvée Fernand Boyer is named in honour of Vincent’s grandfather and is a wine that leads with finesse rather than power.
In the glass the wine is pale gold in colour with faint green hints. The nose is very expressive with fresh lifted notes of apricot, floral aromas and exotic fruits. The palate is rounded and layered with great length. Wood is held in the background.
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